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Pruning shrubs and hedges

February 26, 2015 by admin

After the initial pruning at planting, hedges need to be pruned often. Once the hedge reaches the desired height, prune new growth back whenever it grows another 6 to 8 inches. Prune to within 2 inches of the last pruning. Hedges may be pruned twice a year, in spring and again in mid-summer, to keep them dense and attractive. Prune hedges so they’re wider at the base than at the top, to allow all parts to receive sunlight and prevent legginess.

Renewal pruning for older or overgrown shrubs

Every year remove up to one-third of the oldest, thickest stems or trunks, taking them right down to the ground. This will encourage the growth of new stems from the roots. Once there are no longer any thick, overgrown trunks left, switch to standard pruning as needed.

Rejuvenation pruning for older or overgrown shrubs

Deciduous shrubs that have multiple stems (aka, cane-growth habit), and that have become very overgrown or neglected can be rejuvenated by cutting all canes back as close to the ground as possible in early spring. That season’s flowers may be sacrificed but the benefits from bringing the plants back to their normal size and shape outweigh this temporary “collateral damage.” This pruning technique works best for shrubs such as overgrown spirea, forsythia, cane-growth viburnums, honeysuckle and any other multiple stemmed shrubs that are otherwise healthy. Within one growing season, these shrubs will look like new plantings, full and natural shaped.

Pruning evergreens

With few exceptions, evergreens (conifers) require little pruning. Different types of evergreens should be pruned according to their varied growth habits.

Spruces, firs and douglas-firs don’t grow continuously, but can be pruned any time because they have lateral (side) buds that will sprout if the terminal (tip) buds are removed. It’s probably best to prune them in late winter, before growth begins. Some spring pruning, however, is not harmful.
Pines only put on a single flush of tip growth each spring and then stop growing. Prune before these “candles” of new needles become mature. Pines do not have lateral buds, so removing terminal buds will take away new growing points for that branch. Eventually, this will leave dead stubs. Pines seldom need pruning, but if you want to promote more dense growth, remove up to two-thirds of the length of newly expanded candles. Don’t prune further back than the current year’s growth.
Arborvitae, junipers, yews, and hemlocks grow continuously throughout the growing season. They can be pruned any time through the middle of summer. Even though these plants will tolerate heavy shearing, their natural form is usually most desirable, so prune only to correct growth defects.

To learn more about the best time to prune shrubs download the Shrub Pruning Calendar courtesy of the Virginia Cooperative Extension. (pdf)

At Dos Amigos Landscaping we have the expertise to prune your trees and shrubs properly for maximum health and beauty of your trees, shrubs and landscaping. Right now (January to March) is the best time to prune most deciduous trees in Virginia. Contact us today we’ll come to your property, make an assessment and give you an estimate for pruning. Call Daniel Martin at 434-465-0075 to schedule an appointment or send an email.

It’s Pruning Time

February 6, 2015 by admin

tree and shrub pruning Charlottesville — Types of pruning and the visual affect

Pruning is a horticultural practice that alters the form and growth of a plant. Based on aesthetics and science, pruning can also be considered preventive maintenance. Many problems may be prevented by pruning correctly during formative years for a tree or shrub. It’s good to prune to promote plant health, remove dead branches or branches that are rubbing together. Pruning can also encourage flower and fruit development, and encourage hedge growth.

Timing is Everything!

The late dormant season is best for most pruning. Pruning in late winter, just before spring growth starts, leaves fresh wounds exposed for only a short length of time before new growth begins the wound sealing process. Another advantage of dormant pruning is that it’s easier to make pruning decisions without leaves obscuring plant branch structure. Pruning at the proper time can avoid certain disease and physiological problems:

Pruning at the proper time can avoid certain disease and physiological problems:
•   To avoid oak wilt disease DO NOT prune oaks from April to October. If oaks are wounded or must be pruned during these months, apply wound dressing or latex paint to mask the odor of freshly cut wood so the beetles that spread oak wilt will not be attracted to the trees.
•   To avoid increased likelihood of stem cankers, prune honey locusts when they are still dormant in late winter. If they must be pruned in summer, avoid rainy or humid weather conditions.
•   Prune apple trees, including flowering crabapples, mountain ash, hawthorns and shrub cotoneasters in late winter (February-early April). Spring or summer pruning increases chances for infection and spread of the bacterial disease fireblight. Autumn or early winter pruning is more likely to result in drying and die-back at pruning sites.
•   Some trees have free-flowing sap that “bleeds” after late winter or early spring pruning. Though this bleeding causes little harm, it may still be a source of concern. To prevent bleeding, you could prune the following trees after their leaves are fully expanded in late spring or early summer. Never remove more than 1/4 of the live foliage. Examples include:
— All maples, including box elder
— Butternut and walnut
— Birch and its relatives, ironwood and blue beech

Prune before or after blooming?

Trees and shrubs that bloom early in the growing season on last year’s growth should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming:
• apricot
• azalea
• chokeberry
•  chokecherry
• clove currant
• flowering plum  or cherry
• forsythia
• Juneberry
• lilac
• magnolia
• early blooming spirea

Shrubs grown primarily for their foliage rather than showy flowers should be pruned in spring, before growth begins:
alpine currant
barberry
buffalo berry
burning bush
dogwood
honeysuckle
ninebark
pea shrub
purpleleaf
sandcherry
smokebush
sumac

Shrubs that bloom on new growth may be pruned in spring before growth begins. Plants with marginally hardy stems such as clematis and shrub roses should be pruned back to live wood. Hardier shrubs such as late blooming spireas and smooth (snowball) hydrangeas should be pruned to the first pair of buds above the ground. To learn more about the best time to prune shrubs download the Shrub Pruning Calendar (PDF)
(Courtesy of the Virginia Cooperative Extension).

Japanese Beetle

March 8, 2014 by admin

Japanese Beetle—just a pest? or causing serious damage?

The Japanese beetle is found throughout Virginia and has been well established in Virginia since the early 1970’s. They feed on a wide variety of trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants. They can severely damage the foliage for fruit trees and grapes and can at times be pest of vegetables and field crops. The immature stage, also called a grub or white grub can reach pest status on many varieties of grass grown for turf in Virginia.

The adult of the Japanese beetle is bright metallic green and is about 3/8 inch long. It is smaller then the Green June beetle which is over ¾ inch long. The Japanese beetle wing covers are coppery colored and there are a series of tufts of white hairs on the abdomen. The larvae of the Japanese beetle are similar to other species of white grubs and have an off-white body with a brown head. They curl into a C-shape when not active. Japanese beetles larvae have a distinctive v-shaped row of spines on the end of the abdomen.

Damage from Adult Beetle: Japanese beetles chew small holes in leaves between the leaf veins. This damage gives the leaves a lacy appearance and is called skeletonizing. They will also feed on fruit and buds. Heavily damaged trees and plants will take on a brownish cast as leaves shrivel and die

[Read more…]

Pruning Trees for Health and Beauty

January 2, 2014 by admin

pruning trees charlottesville Pruning is the most common tree maintenance procedure. Although forest trees grow quite well with only nature’s pruning, landscape trees require a higher level of care to maintain their safety and aesthetics. Pruning should be done with an understanding of how the tree responds to each cut. Improper pruning can cause damage that will last for the life of the tree, or worse, shorten the tree’s life. Proper pruning, with an understanding of tree biology, can maintain good tree health and structure while enhancing the aesthetic and economic values of your landscape.

When to Prune Trees

Trees that shed their leaves annually are classified as deciduous trees. Pruning deciduous trees and shrubs at different seasons triggers different responses. In the Charlottesville area, late winter or early spring, before bud break, is a good time to prune many tree species because callus tissue forms rapidly. When pruning flowering trees, take care not to cut off flower buds. Some trees, such as cherry, plum, and crabapple, form buds on old wood. Others, such as crape myrtle, bloom on new wood. [Read more…]

Why Aerate Your Lawn?

August 5, 2013 by admin

Aeration Coreing — A machine removes plugs (or cores) from the turf.

Why Aerate Your Lawn?

Lawn aeration involves the removal of small soil plugs, or cores, out of the lawn. Typically, this process takes place in late August and throughout September. On many occasions, your lawn can be aerate/over-seed even later in the year provided the soil temperature stays high enough to get your new seed to germinate. There are numerous reasons to aerate your lawn. Here are some of the benefits of aerating:

•   Aerating reduces your dependency on water. Why spend more money watering your lawn than you have to? In neighborhoods or cities where water is very expensive, nearly everyone will aerate their lawn. The aeration process allows water to get into the soil before the water has a chance to run off.
•   Aerating reduces compaction. Over time, your lawn becomes compacted. Whether it is from you walking on your lawn, your children playing on the lawn or just general use, the soil becomes compacted. Soil that is compacted cannot absorb water, air, nutrients, seed, etc. that it desparately needs to stay healthy.
•   Aerating encourages your roots to grow deeper. Within two weeks of aerating, you’ll notice that the holes left by the aerator start to fill up with plant roots or from the new seed that is normally used during the over-seeding process in the fall of the year.
Lawn Aeration Benefits •   Aerating holes help to absorb water. Rather than water having to start penetrating from the surface, it can start penetrating from one to 2 ½ inches below the surface. Not only will the holes made by the aerator hold the water, but they will also help the water to sink 2 – 4 inches deeper into the soil.
•   It encourages thicker turf. As your roots grow down, your grass will grow quicker and also thicker, creating a thicker turf.
•   Aerating helps build organic material in the soil. Compacted soil just doesn’t have nearly as much organic material in it. The aeration process allows organic material and other nutrients to enter the soil.

Let Dos Amigos Landscaping aerate your lawn this fall, for a beautiful green healthy lawn next spring! Call us to schedule: 434-465-0075

Quality Lawn Care and Landscaping Services, Charlottesville, Virginia